The velvet rope, the guest list, the bouncers: it should feel like you’ve earned something when you make it past these gatekeepers. The self-described gastro-lounge is festooned with wood paneling, aristocratic portraits, tarnished mirrors and other trappings. Guests sashay on the enormous dance floor downstairs while a DJ spins pop and Girl Talk-inspired remixes up top. There’s a surprising menu of eclectic comfort food—everything from waffle fries to Kung Pao Chicken Satay to Pretzel Dogs. It’s oddly homey for a place like this, but don’t let the menu fool you: although reservations aren’t required, signing up for bottle service makes it a lot easier to get in.