A global theme predominates from the first step into the columned dining room where translucent world maps divide the booths while somewhat abstracted, colorful representations of the planet repeat on the walls. Chocolate-colored marble in the front and rear complement earth-toned frosted glass screens and a room-long curved-wood panel. The result suggests art deco elegance à la 1939 New York World’s Fair. The restaurant is equally worldly, its staff-owned cooperative representing twenty-two nations. (Many are former employees of Windows on the World.) The menu accordingly hopscotches from Mexican crab enchiladas to Spanish paella to Argentine-inflected New York strip steaks. Though there are haute ambitions—pickled ginger made in-house—the cuisine veers closer to comfort food. Dishes change seasonally and employ organic, fair-trade ingredients.